Difficulty level: Very High
Total Time Required: 2 days
The official Rear View Camera Badge, which will be called RVC for short, can be installed exclusively in Volkswagen cars.
It helps to park in difficult places with low visibility and consists of the Volkswagen signal incorporating the camera, which recalls when the driver makes a reverse and returns to his original position after a few seconds after the driver pulls back.
There are many different versions of VW RVC.
Before you begin, you need to make sure which version you want to buy to be compatible with your car. Other cameras are intended for official RNS-315 and RNS-510 multimedia systems and others for third-party audio systems.
In this guide, an effort is made to analyze the installation of the official RVC on a Volkswagen EOS car along with the RNS-510 multimedia system.
NOTICE
You must gather all the equipment - tools and read this DIY guide before you begin this project.
This DIY is specifically made for VW EOS cars. The equipment, cable harness and/or connections may be differect in your car.
We will not be held responsible for any damage which may happen to your car by following this guide.
A popup will display, which you can close and then you will be able to read the article.
YOU MUST DISABLE IT, IN ORDER TO BE ABLE TO READ THE REST OF THE ARTICLE.
VW OEM RVC Retrofit
Step 1: Gathering the equipment
ESSENTIAL ITEMS
You have to buy the following items before you start this project.
Car Multimedia Systems: RNS-510, RCD-510*, RNS-315. Cost: ~600€ from ebay
The VW badge with the reversing camera equiped with a 7.5m special cable harness for the VW EOS and a water drain hose. Cost: 400€ from Carsystems
10 Plastic fasteners with screws for the trunk door (optional)
A 5 Ampere (light brown) fuse with Part Number: N10261501 - Cost: 0.10 €
Or a 10 Ampere fuse (red) with Part Number: N10261503 - Cost: 0.10 €
Attention: The fuses come out in two sizes, you need the small ones as shown in the photo.
A yellow cable with part number 000 979 133 for the fusebox connection. Cost: 1 €
Plug connector 26 with part number 7L6 972 726 for audio system connection. Cost: € 4 (optional)
3 yellow cables with part number 000 979 009 E for connecting the plug above: 3x4 = 12 € (optinal)
ESSENTIAL TOOLS:
Magnetic Screwdriver for use with magnetic tips of various types and sizes.
Trim Removers to remove the plastic parts of the audio system (eg: Pro.Fit International DM-40-22 or Silverline): 10 €
Tweezers or another pin removal tool for the fuse block.
Textile Cloth Tape: Cost 8 €
Small Tire ups
Drill (to cut a hole for the water drain hose and avoid water inflow)
Cutter
Multimeter for wiring control (optional): 20 €
A laptop with VCDS software installed along with the special Vag-Com cable
Attention: If a rear-end bolt refuses to come out, you will need additionally the following:
Screw with part number N10569501 for mounting the camera badge.
Thread that matches the above screw.
Glue to catch thread - holes in the porthole hole.
Damaged screw extruder set: Cost 6 € (optional)
Universal lubricant (eg WD-40). Cost 5 € (optional)
Step 2: Removing the top trunk cover
Firstly you must remove the top carpet of the trunk. Unclip the lock cap by pulling it down, then undoing the two lids to the right and left by pulling them out. Finally, unscrew the 8 plastic screws and the two hidden iron screws.
You will see something like the following image:
Then, disconnect the plug from the rear VW badge and unscrew the three T25 screws that hold it in place to remove it.
At this point, it is quite possible that at least one screw will not come out and it will seem that it turns crazy. In fact, the screw does not turn because it is 99% rusted. There are various solutions to overcome this problem. First of all, you should spray the screw with a lubricant, such as the WD-40. Then you can pinch a screwdriver to the point where the screw on the base, so that it can slide in between. While holding resistance with the screwdriver, you can start unscrewing.
If this does not work out, you must cut the head of the screw, then remove the screw along with the thread, make a new thread and use a new screw. As you can see, this solution is the worst, because the thread does not exist as a replacement part, as it goes along with the trunk.
Here's how the damaged screw, along with the thread, looks like:
Step 3: Preparing for the RVC connection
Put in place the camera-badge (RVC). Take the wiring and connect it to the camera.
The 4-pin connector is connected to the 2-socket badge and plug in the existing wiring harness that you previously unplugged.
The two cables, yellow and black that are left loose, should not be connected right away, but instead they should be tied in such a way that their edges end up behind the rear lamp in the right.
Now, you should align the cable harness with the existing cables using the bindings and / or the cloth tape and make sure it is not completely stretched or loose.
Next, you have to disconnect the wiring connector plate from the cable. This must be done, otherwise the cables will not be able to pass through the existing wiring and may block the opening of the trunk when opens or closes. You will need a special removal tool for this job.
Alternatively, you can cut the wiring about 10 centimeters before the plug and connect it after it is passed in the front of the car. If you do not have this special removal tool, then this solution is the only way to do it or else you may destroy the plug and you will need cables and plug for proper reconnection.
Now, you should wrap the end of the wiring with an insulating tape.
The next step is to drill to open the water holes. Insert the water drain hose into the RVC and mark the inside of the hole to leave the water. With a small drill, you should open a hole at the inside of the porthole and another on the outside of the trunk to pull the water out. You should make sure that the holes have the exact size to allow the drain hose to securely fit into them.
Next, you have to go to a car shop to put some color in your holes to prevent future rust.
Now disconnect and remove the RVC and then insert and reconnect the original VW badge.
Step 4: Rear seats removal
For the wiring to pass from behind to the front, you have to remove the rear seats and side panels. The process is relatively simple.
First you open the roof of the cabrio all the way down.
Then remove the piece from the backrest located in the center of the rear seats.
Pull the seat bench 1 into the front area upwards from the three slots 2 - arrows A.
Pull the seat bench at an angle of 45 ° from the slots in the back area to the outside and unscrew the screws 1 and 2..
Now to get the plastic caps behind the head restraints, pull the cover 1 upwards from the arrows slots.
Loosen the loop from the cover.
Pull up the back through the plastic sheets 3 and 4 in the area of the head restraints. It comes out of the way.
Now it is the the turn of the side wallpaper. Unscrew the one screw on the top, which is hidden next to the belt and the two screws at the bottom.
Now disconnect the cable harness from the speaker and pull the wallpaper up and in, it comes out easily. Be careful not to block the wallpaper from closing the roof and close the roof now. You can continue to work at another time.
Step 5: Passing the cable harness to the left side
In this step, you have to pass the cable harness from the back to the front. The wiring must pass from the left of the car on the driver's side. This is for two reasons: First, the GPS antenna wiring passes from the right and there is no room for a second cable to enter, and secondly even if you do not have the original GPS antenna, the RVC wiring might be short in length to pass from the right.
The philosophy is to pass the wiring following the factory wiring that exists and where you can put bindings and / or the special cloth tape.
Remove the plastic parts of the roof. First remove the small plastic that is hidden beneath the black metal plate shown in the picture. Put enough insulating tape because it is easily scratched and expensive as a replacement. It comes out pulling the two clips on the front and back, and then pushing forward to the front. He wants a lot of patience to get out, first look at the photos below to get an idea.
Then remove the large plastic piece in front of it, pulling back and upwards.
Then locate the screw in the third small plastic piece in order to remove it.
Pass the have harness and leave it in the left side of the trunk.
At this point, if you want, you can close the roof and continue the project at a later time.
Step 6: Passing the cable harness under the luggage compartment
Now you have to reopen the roof, but this time you leave it half-open at the exact point shown in the picture below.
GREAT DANGER!
The roof should be left exactly at it is shown in the above photo. It's the point where the roof's arms are getting ready to get out of their slots, but they have NOT come out yet. When you reach this point, switch off the ignition and remove the car keys. This must definitely be done because otherwise the roof mechanism will overheat and can cause damage or accident. A warning sound will sound for approximately 25 seconds.
This is done in order to pass the cable harness by removing the left-hand luggage compartment carpet completely. Remove the cover to protect the roof by unscrewing the left latch, pulling out the left socket from the lid, then pulling out the right socket. Unscrew the torx screw on the left.
Remove the plastic roof protectors fasteners.
Then, remove the 4 plastic screws from the carpet.
Finally, after removing the luggage compartment floor, unclip the clip at the rear right that holds together the side carpet and remove it.
You will see the following picture:
Pass the harness in the same path as the factory harness and use fasteners and/or insulating tape at the points you need to hold it in place.
In the picture below, you can see the point from which the cabling passes from the luggage area to the passenger compartment.
So, at this point, you should pass the harness in passenger compartment, behind the foam to the right of the belt. Once you have passed it, you can put the wallpaper, the floor and the lid in place, taking care not to forget anything, e.g. a tool, at the point where the roof drops when it opens.
If you want, you can now close the roof and continue the project at a later time.
Step 7: Passing the cable harness from the luggage area to the passenger compartment
Continue to pass the cable harness under the side wallpaper, which you have pulled out of your work area.
Unhook the sill and pass the harness underneath.
Now, the plastic piece of the lever for the front bonnet has to be released. Pull the lever out, remove the lid from the screw, unscrew it with a straight screwdriver, and then unhook the lever cap again using the screwdriver (see the illustrations below for help).
Now unfold the cable harness and connect the separated red cable to the + 12v of the fuse block. Pass the rest of the wiring through the factory wiring harness and snap it in place at various points. Remove the audio system and pass the wiring up to the audio system. See how you remove the audio system here.
Connect the wiring harness with the 26 socket (code 7L6 972 726). The cables are connected in the following ways:
26 -> Green
25 -> Blue
24 -> Black
13 -> Orange
12-> Coffee
Now you can put the plastic pieces back in place. If one of the metal shutters has been pulled out of the sill, you have to slid it over it and press it down again.
Then put the side wallpaper in place, after you plug in the speaker plug. Finally, open the roof and put the rear seats in place.
It is advisable to grip the seats, because they are easily soiled, otherwise you will not avoid biological cleaning.
Step 8: Connecting the cable harness with the fusebox
Remove the negative pole of the battery.
Remove the insulating tape from the harness to connect it to the fuse box.
Now remove the light switch by pushing it in when it is in position 0 (or Auto if the switch has an "Auto" position) and turning it to the On position. This will unlock the security that holds him.
Remove the torx screw hidden on the top.
Remove the plastic steering wheel cover by pulling the two edges towards you and unscrewing the left screw below.
Open the glove compartment and unscrew the screw on the top right.
And then the other two screws at the bottom left and right.
Unclip the plastic side of the guide with the plastic removal tools and see the fuse box.
Unscrew the screws at the top and bottom of the fuse block and then the fuse block comes out of position. Carefully remove the three clips that hold the fuse block.
The next step requires removing all fuses. You photograph them carefully to know their positions.
The fuse box gives 12V voltage, at some points interrupted, ie it does not give power when the machine is not working, in other places it gives power when the key is in the starter and in others it gives continuity (continuous). The wiring is ready to take power from the fuses and requires a 12V DC current.
There is no slot for the RVC in the user manual, so you need to find a vacancy. Be careful that the position you choose to have contact on top of it otherwise will not go there stream. We chose box 16
Remove the rear plastic part of the fuselage. With a thin, straight screwdriver, unwrap the plastic plate and with the other hand push the purple piece to unlock the sockets. A click click will be heard.
Then insert the wires into the correct sockets. They are numbered, so you find the number that says 16 and enter the red cable just below. They come in very easily, and it sounds a distinctive sound when they snap into the slot. You should pay close attention to getting in because if they are wrong, they only come out with a special removal tool.
You clamp that you previously removed the fuse box in place.
Step 9: Final connections
You are finally at the final stage of the project. Phew... Open the porthole and place the RVC.
You must connect the other two cables that you left next to the reverse. The yellow cable is connected to the + 12V reverse, so with the white cable of the nature and the black cable with the ground, so with the brown cable of the nature.
Step 10: Coding with VAG-COM
Now connect the battery pole and start the car. There will be shown several errors, please do not panic. Put the car into the wild and open the VCDS program.
Select Module 37 - Navigation and check the Bit 6 box in Byte 3 that says "To enable and show RVC on display".
Note: This only works for the low line camera (i.e. without the control module that gives you moving guidance lines).
If your car is equiped with factory parking sensors like ours, then you can display them visually along with the RVC.
Select Module 10 - Park / Steer Assist and check the Bit 5 box in Byte 0 that says "Rear View Camera installed".
Step 11: Testing
If everything went well, you should put back the upholstery at the top of the trunk, replacing the plastic screws - screws.
Check that you can open the trunk with the RVC. When you put back, the signal will be thrown up alone and you can see the image at the back.
Take a ride, so the brain can understand that there is no problem and the errors will be erased automatically.
References
